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They are remarkably beautiful people who still dress in the traditional style of brown leather and heavy jewellery and wear their hair in the intricate fashion their tribe is famous for.

Once at the river mouth, those who have come prepared (by that I mean extra fuel, satellite phone, convoy and kitchen sink) can drive off-road northwards along a dune-fringed beach for approximately 160 kilometres until reaching Tombua, the nearest coastal town.

In the far south, dunes from the Namib slope into an ocean as blue as a sapphire, while further north chaotic cities and quaintly dilapidated Portuguese towns lie separated by miles and miles of rugged emptiness. But ignore Angola’s inland attractions to your own detriment.

There you’ll find mountain ranges every bit as dramatic as the Drakensberg, waterfalls to rival the biggest and best in the world and a landscape as assorted as a bowl of mixed fruit.

However, if you know what you’re doing or have an experienced 4×4 guide with you, the drive is surely one of the most spectacular on the continent.

Reconstruction crews which have given face-lifts to many of Angola’s populated areas seem to have missed Cahama completely, and the streets and surrounding landscapes look as if a battle was fought here mere weeks ago.

Back roads are often riddled with rainfilled potholes large enough to attract breeding pairs of ducks.

Hotels are rarer than chickens’ teeth (and often overpriced) and should you have a problem, say a breakdown, finding a qualified person to assist is going to be harder than finding an honest politician.

This isn’t something that should be attempted by novices.

If you get stuck in the sand, there’s a very good chance the tide will rise and eat your vehicle – and your insurance company will wet themselves with laughter should you try to make a claim.

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